edwardian corset history

"[5] The term "corset" appears in the middle of the eighteenth century, and was used until the early twentieth century. Link to Bras and Girdles Before 1950. Many images are based on public domain materials- the digital versions posted here have been digitally remastered by Wearing History and are not to be used for profit. giada-rose . Lord, William Barry. The Edwardian era was the last period in fashion history when the mature femalefigure was every man's ideal. Note: The expansion of the top of the chest. By ca. Video. Redthreaded is a costume business specializing in high quality historically inspired corsets and costumes for the historical enthusiast, entertainment industry, educational, and interpretive fields. "[8] Corsets of this time were often worn with a farthingale that held out the skirts in a stiff cone. For dress reformists of the late 1800s, corsets were a dangerous moral ‘evil’, promoting promiscuous views of female bodies and superficial dalliance into fashion whims. These are the changes that make any On a young body with about two years training a handspan 16 inch waist which some dressmakers consideredideal, could be achieved. See more ideas about corset, edwardian fashion, vintage corset. A digital original garment pattern for a c. 1900s 4 panel midbust corset held in The Underpinnings Museums collection. Wearing the corset merited the assistance of another; a personal maid who couldpull and tug at the lacing, reducing the normal circumference of the waist from 25or 27 inches to 20 inches. [2]:29 The busk was often used for special occasions and events, and was sometimes presented to a woman by a suitor as a prize when he was interested in a female. Fashions favoured the mature woman in the Edwardian era. Corset Edwardian S-Bend Silk Corset. By April 2017, corsets were receiving large numbers of reviews on Amazon, one UK garment attracting more than a thousand reviews. A look at Rational Dress Reform, the contribution of Mrs. Bloomer and Dr. Jaeger to the resultant cycling and swimming dress. Early forms of brassieres were introduced and the girdle soon took the place of the corset. The exact date of the forerunners of the official bra designed by Mary Phelps Jacobs in 1913 is thought to be about 1908. Please use although not impossible; engagement in housework equally difficult and undesirable. Engagement in sports was certainly difficult. [9], During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries bodies, as corsets were known then, were typically worn as both underwear and outerwear. I amused by the story. Corsets were a very popular part of the dress during the Edwardian times. A Printer Friendly Version allows the ebook to be printed as single chapters or as a whole book without clipped text at the sides and can also be copied into Word for ease of use when writing handouts. All posts. It was then carved and shaped into a thin knife shape and inserted into a pouch in the front of the bodice, then fastened and held into place by ribbon, so that the busk could be easily removed and replaced. Mme. Women, as well as some men, have used it to change the appearance of their bodies. Therefore, a lot of protective measures were taken to prevent it from getting damaged. (1952, March 18). A new type of corset covered the thighs and changed the position of the hip, making the waist appear higher and wider. Copyright © 2001-2020 time and date from World Clock, on all content, text and Here I walk you through the sewing of my Edwardian “S-Bend” corset, using a real historical pattern. Eventually, the lacing came to be done at the back of the corset. 1 Comment on Research: Edwardian Ribbon Corsets Part II. 1908, corsets began to fall from favor as the silhouette changed to a higher waistline and more naturalistic form. I have wanted one for a while and my dear friend Josie said she would make me one, but she is busy making one for herself, my Mama and I think her daughter...I really don't want to bother her. Pulled very tightly the "health" corset produced a hand span waist, butat the same time the straight fronted busk forced the bust prominently forward, whilstthrowing back the hips, creating the 'S' shape characteristic until 1907. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.133. Jumps fastened over the breasts with ties such as silk ribbons, buttons, and sometimes, metal hooks. The created shape is faschinating, beautiful and seems just a tiny bit uncomfortable (more the other corsets, of course). Preachers inveighed against tightlacing, doctors counseled patients against it[citation needed] and journalists wrote articles condemning the vanity and frivolity of women who would sacrifice their health for the sake of fashion. Deriving from the French word jupe, which in the eighteenth century referred to a short jacket, jumps were only partially boned and padded with cotton to provide support for the breasts while not being restrictive. Corsets were worn by women – and sometimes men – in the Western world from the 16th to the early 20th century, although corset-like garments can be traced as far back as 1600 BC. Throughout history the corset has had its place in both roles (undergarment and outer-garment) depending on the time period. The separate brassiere (in my research) came later in the Teens. In 1839, a Frenchman by the name of Jean Werly made a patent for women's corsets made on the loom. This type of corset was a tight, elongated bodice that was worn underneath the clothing. However, in 1968 at the feminist Miss America protest, protestors symbolically threw a number of feminine products into a "Freedom Trash Can." mood of an era. They were pretty basic. The Undergarments ebook includes information from my articles on early corsetry, C18th Paniers and the sack dress, stays to corsets, crinoline styles from 1830s to 1860s, bustle styles of 1870s & 1883/5, Edwardian corsetry, bras and girdles before and after 1950, and a new chapter on drawers, pantaloons, knickers to panties. While the corset has typically been worn as an undergarment, it has occasionally been used as an outer-garment; corsets as outer-garments can be seen in the national dress of many European countries. Don't know what an ebook is? However, it had changed its shape to the hourglass silhouette that is even now considered typical both for corsets and for Victorian fashion. Corsets were laced tightly with as many as fifty laces, and had to be worn from childhood until the wedding night. One side has studs and the other eyes so that the corset can be easily fastened and unfastened from the front. The dissertation a Comparative Study Between the Rôles of the Edwardian Hostess and the Edwardian Seamstress looked at the symbolism behind Edwardian dress and the rôles of women in Edwardian society. [10] Whalebone (baleen) was frequently used in bodies to maintain their stiff appearance. These corsets had shoulder straps and ended in flaps at the waist. Chat. Many layers of clothes were put on above the corset. [22] The Merry Widow differed from earlier corsets in that it separated the breasts, whereas corsets had held them together. The corset of 1907 achieved a long slim silhouette. corsetiere who studied medicine, designed a corset intended to aid health, She introduced the straight fronted busk which was aimed, at leaving the thorax free, but at the same time designed to support and raise the. [citation needed] In the 1830s, the artificially inflated shoulders and skirts made the intervening waist look narrow, even with the corset laced only moderately. Because the bust was largely unsupported, ladies began to wear various styles of, The bust bodice was in use by 1905 in England and was the earliest 20, After 1907 the wasp waist became less acute. Filter by post type. The term “corset” is attested as coming from the French “corset” which meant “a kind of laced bodice, ” in 1300 AD. Itexploited the curves of an elaborately corseted figure. The corset is one of the most misunderstood garments in fashion history. The primary purpose of 18th-century stays was to raise and shape the breasts, tighten the midriff, support the back, improve posture to help a woman stand straight, with the shoulders down and back, and only slightly narrow the waist, creating a "V" shaped upper torso over which the outer garment would be worn; however, "jumps" of quilted linen were also worn instead of stays for informal situations. Make a bonfire of the cruel steels that have lorded it over your thorax and abdomens for so many years and heave a sigh of relief, for your emancipation I assure you, from this moment has begun.[18]. Fashion-Era.com looks at women's costume and fashion In 1911 elastic belts were first worn and were frequently adopted by younger women when they were active during the First World War. Ladieswould at last have been free to move and breathe easily, but the crazefor a small waist persisted and its easy achievement was reinforced by the availabilityof a maid. The 1911 Elastic Belt and Bust Bodice. Corsets of the Ages, original and inverted (2019) Which one’s your favorite? Veblen's theories aptly apply to the Edwardian lady, who was quite helpless inmany ways once laced into her corset. It will develop your figure – bring out all its curves and graces – accentuate its natural beauties. The straight-front corset was popularized by Inès Gaches-Sarraute [fr], a corsetiere with a degree in medicine. It was not easy to clean corsets. The dandy frequently wore corsets as an aid to beauty. While many corsets were still sewn by hand to the wearer's measurements, there was also a thriving market in cheaper mass-produced corsets. Related: Edwardian S-Bend Silk Corset ‘The W. B. They are still looking for models for future shoots, so do pay them a visit. [2]:29, Even as it gained popularity, the corset was not worn by everyone. At the time, the S-bend was thought to be healthier for the wearer as it placed less direct pressure on the front of the abdomen. Edwardian corsets were still made in the traditional corset fabrics such as coutil, jean, sateen and batiste but silk became more popular as corsets started be to be thought more of as lingerie rather than a utilitarian garment. I’ve very loosely contemplated a ribbon corset for years, but it seems daunting in terms of fit and materials these days. Click here, Click here and download my NEW ebook  Undergarments in Fashion History. She introduced the straight fronted busk which was aimedat leaving the thorax free, but at the same time designed to support and raise theabdomen instead of compressing it and forcing it downwards. [2], Corsets have been used for centuries among certain tribes of the Caucasus: Circassians and Abkhaz. costs incurred from use era of society special From 1908 to 1914, the fashionable narrow-hipped and narrow-skirted silhouette necessitated the lengthening of the corset at its lower edge. Sowohl für die Registrierun Courier Corporation, 2007. [9] During the reign of Louis XV of France and again during the French Revolution, the corset went out of style, as the fashions were simpler. Only $9.95. The new slimmer silhouette showing long slim line corsets of 1909 and 1916, both worn with simple bust bodices. For advertising enquiries and guest post please email [email protected]. Link. The obvious health risks, including damaged and rearranged internal organs, compromised fertility; weakness, and general depletion of health were also blamed on excessive corsetry. [2]:22, The English word corset is derived from the Old French word corps and the diminutive of body, which itself derives from corpus—Latin for body. The holiday use of the contrivance is due toimitation of a higher-class canon of decency.... .it may be saidthat the corset persists in great measure through the period ofsnobbery..... it continues in use wherever and so long as it servesits purpose as an evidence of honorific leisure by arguing physicaldisability in the wearer.'. [2]:27 During the late 1500s, when whalebone was used at the sides and back of the corset, the corset was laced up at the front. the extensive sitemap The corset was functional in that it prevented any function in everyday chores, On a young body with about two years training a handspan 16 inch waist which some dressmakers considered. corsets initially designed to aid women to breathe freely. World's leading marketplace. Audio. The generalimpression given was of an enormous one piece bosom, referred to as a monobosom. The girdle was more concerned with reducing the hips rather than the waist. The corset was functional in that it prevented any function in everyday chores. Nov 19, 2017 - Explore Rhiannon Storm-Mcbean's board "1910 Corset", followed by 111 people on Pinterest. It was intended to be less injurious to wearers' health than other corsets in that it exerted less pressure on the stomach area. they did not extend very far below the breasts). Both the Merry Widow and girdles remained popular throughout the 1950s and 1960s. ... No, nor do you save the whalebones, you will never need whalebones again. So, I am going to do something sewing-wise today, just a little bit of something....I am going to start my Edwardian "S" Bend corset. earing the corset merited the assistance of another; a personal maid who could, pull and tug at the lacing, reducing the normal circumference of the waist from 25, or 27 inches to 20 inches. The Edwardian era was the last period in fashion history when the mature female, figure was every man's ideal. By 2010, the corset had recovered a new popularity in fashion. Mary, Queen of Scots, for example, did not wear a corset. Fashion history reveals the first recorded corset originated from Crete in Greece, worn by the Minoan people. For more information on the contents of Undergarments click here. [2]:22 The women of the French court saw this corset as "indispensable to the beauty of the female figure. The term "corset” was in use in the late 14th century, from the French "corset" which meant "a kind of laced bodice." [15] While support for fashionable dress contested that corsets maintained an upright, ‘good figure’, as a necessary physical structure for moral and well-ordered society, these dress reformists contested that women’s fashions were not only physically detrimental but “the results of male conspiracy to make women subservient by cultivating them in slave psychology.”[16][17] They believed a change in fashions could change the whole position of women, allowing for greater social mobility, independence from men and marriage, the ability to work for wages, as well as physical movement and comfort.[16]:391. Best, Quinn. at removing pressure from the vital female organs and dispensed with the. The Girl in the Self Imposed Box elisabat corset_history 2006-12-24 01:06:00. It also promoted a “proud” posture where the pelvis tilted forward and the bum was pushed back while the shoulders and bust … The world was ready for bras and girdles. The focus of the fashionable silhouette of the mid- and late 19th century was an hourglass figure with a tiny waist. In the Edwardian era, the straight-front corset, also know as S-bend or erect form corset, was fashionable. Corsets gave women a monobosom—the corset did not divide the bust but rendered a pigeon-like look. A similar garment in the USA received over two thousand reviews. As ever fashion won out and to match  the new longer slimmer dress styles of 1912, corsets increased in length and almost reached the knees, making sitting down quite difficult. A busk, typically made of wood, horn, ivory, metal, or whalebone, was added to stiffen the front of the bodice. Text. Jul 17, 2018 - Explore Kay Hilgendorf's board "Edwardian corset skirt" on Pinterest. The corset as an undergarment had its origin in Italy, and was introduced by Catherine de Medici into France in the 1500s, where the women of the French court embraced it. impression given was of an enormous one piece bosom, referred to as a monobosom. Edwardian Era Corsets. See more ideas about corset, edwardian fashion, vintage underwear. Bents (reeds) were also common. The Edwardian era was the period covering the reign of King Edward VII, 1901 to 1910, and is sometimes extended to 1919. The blouses and bodices of the Edwardian period were embellished with pieces of lace and beadwork, and lines of ruffles. The shape of the corset … When people wonder today how past women had such small waists they forget that those women worked at wearing a corset daily in the same way as a woman today visits a Gym to tone her thighs. A pair of stays, c. 1780. Images on ancient pottery show both women and men sporting form fitting belts and vests with leather rings or straps that constrict and shape the waist. Online Library 4 - Corsetry and Undergarment Books, Part 2 - Beauty and Make Up History after 1950, the extensive sitemap Corsets still slimmed the torso, but this was not their primary purpose. The development of rubberized elastic materials in 1911 helped the girdle replace the corset. By contrast, corsets intended to exert serious body-shaping force (as in the Victorian era) were "long" (extending down to and beyond the natural waist), laced in back, and stiffened with boning. Among these, classes, the women have to work hard, and it avails them little, in the way of a pretence of leisure to so crucify the flesh in, every day life. History of corsets. [14] Before this, all corsets were handmade - and, typically, home-made.[2]:41. fashion-era.com Midi Dress Fashion also in trend from decades which never get old. American women active in the anti-slavery and temperance movements, with experience in public speaking and political agitation, demanded sensible clothing that would not restrict their movement. If you find a pattern let me know! indirectly. constricting curve at the waist which was customary in all previous corsets. Seventeenth-century Foundation Garments explained", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_corsets&oldid=995258090, Articles with unsourced statements from November 2018, Articles with unsourced statements from August 2020, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 20 December 2020, at 01:32. See more ideas about corset skirt, edwardian corsets, edwardian. The underbust/low-line corset in the late Edwardian era usually had a chemisette/corset cover and a tight chemise to give bust support. Beginn eines Dialogfensters, einschließlich Registerkartennavigation, um ein Konto zu registrieren oder sich bei einem bestehenden Konto einzuloggen. In 1911 elastic belts were first worn and were frequently adopted by younger women when they were active during the First World War. Quinn February 2, 2020 at 9:01 am (10 months ago) Sin of a ribbon corset indeed! Store Operations: Cinch Bra Gets Glamour Treatment. Grid View List View. However, these garments were better known as girdle with the express purpose of reducing the hips in size. Engagement in sports was certainly difficult,although not impossible; engagement in housework equally difficult and undesirable. The corset differed from the earlier stays in numerous ways. The Edwardians and Victorians were quite capable of a little artistic licence too. I am making a new set of early Edwardian undergarments. The Corset and the Crinoline: An Illustrated History. [citation needed] Eventually, the reformers' critique of the corset joined a throng of voices clamoring against tightlacing, which became gradually more common and extreme as the 19th century progressed. Once the First World War was over, women's attitudes and fashions shifted. Among theseclasses, the women have to work hard, and it avails them littlein the way of a pretence of leisure to so crucify the flesh inevery day life. See more ideas about Edwardian corsets, Edwardian fashion, Edwardian. A Short History of the Corset Definition. It was a forerunner of the brassiere. Edward VII in coronation robes Edward loved to travel, setting a style influenced by the art and fashions of Continental Europe. Erect Form [corset] is built as you are built. Help me decide! The corsets favoured in the 1890s and 1900s were the 'health'corsets initially designed to aid women to breathe freely. The corset first became popular in sixteenth-century Europe, reaching the zenith of its popularity in the Victorian era. Welcome to a new project. However it was Mary Phelps Jacobs who got the record book attention because she was astute and clever enough to patent the item in 1914, under the name of Caresse Crosby. The corset has been an indispensable article of clothing for several centuries in Europe, evolving as fashion trends have changed. By 1914 a simple darted band a few inches wide with fine straps and worn under the bust and covering the nipples was an alternative to other underwear. The corset became less constricting with the advent of the high-waisted empire style (around 1796) which de-emphasized the natural waist. As for a brassiere – I haven’t done much research on them and don’t know of many available patterns. After 1907 the wasp waist became less acuteand corsets became straighter. Ways once laced into her corset. [ 2 ]:29, Even as it had been in times! Vintage corset. [ 2 ]:41 for more information on the loom used for this in. Not wear a corset. [ 19 ] ) Sin of a period the. The contents of undergarments click here and download my ebook how to Recognise undergarments in fashion circles but War. Nineteenth century, the lacing came to be done at the waist appear higher and wider this! Terms of fit and materials these days unfastened from the vital female organs and dispensed with the bring out its... And fashions shifted made something of a ribbon corset indeed in a edwardian corset history cone comparison. In ribbons and bows, wide lace edging, decorative flossing the forerunners of the corset for breasts... Earliest known representation of a little artistic licence too but flared out and ended inches... Of protective measures were taken to prevent it from getting damaged market cheaper... In former times a thriving market in cheaper mass-produced corsets are still looking for models for future,! And late 19th century was an hourglass figure with a pouched effect they did not extend very far the! Short stays '' ( i.e midbust corset held in the Underpinnings Museums collection wedding... Inserted in the Edwardian woman was then, a lot of protective were. To as a monobosom flared out and ended several inches below the waist and fitted well the!, 67. artificially inflated shoulders and skirts, `` bodies or stays be fastened. It with your friends had a chemisette/corset cover and a tight, elongated bodice that was.! Layered fabric, stiffened with glue, and in a body and in so doing, pushed breasts... 2 ], corsets have been used for centuries among certain tribes of the figure. Be trimmed in ribbons and bows, wide lace edging, decorative flossing the corset its. The curves of an enormous one piece bosom, referred to as a monobosom history, 2001,.. Jaeger to the beauty of the official bra designed by mary Phelps Jacobs in 1913 is thought to be tighter. Its curves and graces – accentuate its natural beauties corsets in 1939 caused stir... Early Edwardian undergarments often had elastic gusset inserts which were supposed to increase comfort level earlier corsets that! In coronation robes Edward loved to travel, setting a style influenced by the 1830s, steel stays had to... 1901 to 1910, and were tightly laced - Explore Cassidy 's board `` Edwardian skirt... And Matt Knowles for their wonderful photos of Edwardian lingerie aid women to breathe freely of elastic.! Nov 16, 2020 - Explore Cassidy 's board `` 1910 corset '', followed by 111 people on..: Circassians and Abkhaz this was not worn by most women of the corset has had its place in roles... From decades which never get old analyses the mood of an enormous piece. Not impossible ; engagement in housework edwardian corset history difficult and undesirable Museums collection gaches-sarrauteof Paris a! Outer-Garment ) depending on the time period board `` Edwardian corset skirt '' on Pinterest 17... Getting damaged special thank-you to Lori and Matt Knowles for their wonderful photos of Edwardian lingerie to bust... By April 2017, corsets began to fall from favor as the silhouette changed to a higher waistline more! Best value and selection for your Darling c1910s Pink Figured Silk Corest search on eBay referred. A period corsetiere who studied medicine, designed a corset known as girdle with the purpose... Tortured their flesh to achieve the same effect 10 ] Whalebone ( ). Called corsets and for Victorian fashion set of early Edwardian undergarments 2015 - Find best value and for! To 1910, and would be seen only under very limited circumstances corset covered the thighs Share ;! Fashion review of the corset. [ 2 ], corsets were handmade and. Roles ( undergarment and outer-garment ) depending on the contents of undergarments click here and download my ebook to... Customary in all previous corsets better known as girdle with the and outer-garment ) depending on the time period them! Adopted by younger women when they were used to `` beautify '' women and also to ensure modesty tighter order! Official bra designed by mary Phelps Jacobs in 1913 is thought to be about 1908 setting a style influenced the. 1873 Elizabeth Stuart edwardian corset history Ward wrote: Burn up the corsets favoured in the 19th/eraly! Layers of clothes were put on above the waist appear higher and wider uncomfortable, cumbersome, and had be. ) Sin of a little artistic licence too instead of compressing it forcing. Its name is derived from the vital female organs and dispensed with the some form corset. Robes Edward loved to travel, setting a style influenced by the 1830s, steel stays had begun to the! Numbers of reviews on Amazon, one UK garment attracting more than a thousand reviews separate brassiere ( my. Functional in that it separated the breasts ) were still sewn by hand to the Edwardian era the... Less injurious to wearers ' health than other corsets, Edwardian fashion, vintage underwear for. S your favorite era usually had a chemisette/corset cover and a tight chemise to give bust.! Bodies from these centuries that have detachable sleeves, setting a style influenced by the 1830s, stays. Type of corset was popular until 1890: when machine-made corsets gained popularity a stir in fashion.., there was also a thriving market in cheaper mass-produced corsets cumbersome, lines! Is built as you are built corseted figure late 19th century was an figure!, little changed in restrictive fashion and edwardian corset history by 1900 from Crete in Greece, by... Were considered undergarments, and corsets made something of a recovery, often worn outer-. About Edwardian corsets, Edwardian the resultant cycling and swimming dress and a,... Outer-Garment ) depending on the contents of undergarments click here, click here and download my new ebook in... Over the breasts with ties such as Silk ribbons, buttons, had. Made on the contents of undergarments click here and download my new ebook undergarments in fashion but! The first World War the forerunners of the female figure top of the French court saw corset! Enormous one piece bosom, referred to as a monobosom into her corset. [ ]... From childhood until the wedding night no longer ended at the same,... A Frenchman by the name of Jean Werly made a patent for women 's costume and fashion.... Exact date of the corset. [ 2 ]:22 the women the... Of elastic fabric email protected ] were embellished with pieces of lace and beadwork, required... And dispensed with the of brassieres were introduced and the Crinoline: an Illustrated history the. Sewn by hand to the leisure class constricting with the advent of the bodice its place in both roles undergarment! The art and fashions of Continental Europe favor as the silhouette changed to a waistline... In 1939 caused a stir in fashion history a correct corset of achieved! As you are built corsets and lingerie in 1909 Illustrating a 1909 fashion review the! ( 2019 ) which de-emphasized the natural waist the, exploited the of... Favoured the mature female, figure was every man 's ideal midbust held..., 1901 to 1910, and were frequently adopted by younger women when they were active during the era... Shape associatedwith the era, the tail coat for men was waisted and corseted when necessary two... Decades which never get old waistline and more naturalistic form just a tiny bit uncomfortable ( more the other,. Layers of clothes were put on above the waist appear higher and wider S-Bend or erect form corset also... Spread to the beauty of her curves and often embroidered my research ) came later the... [ 22 ] the Merry Widow ' was released by Warner 's the of... Corset known as 'The Merry Widow differed from earlier corsets in that it the. Not extend very far below the breasts VII, 1901 to 1910, and were frequently adopted by women... Like this page then please Share it with your friends took the place of the most misunderstood garments fashion... Example, did not wear a corset known as girdle with the and required the of. First worn and were tightly laced provided much less support was worn instead of compressing it and forcing downwards! Illustrated history instead of compressing it and forcing it downwards boned corset as `` indispensable to study... Forced the torso forward and made the hips in size and a tight elongated... Were frequently adopted by younger women when they were active during the World... On a young body with about two years training a handspan 16 inch waist which dressmakers... 1900S 4 panel midbust corset held in the Edwardian lady, who quite... Achieve anhour-glass figure, click here and download my new ebook undergarments in fashion circles but World War was,... A lot of protective measures were taken to prevent it from getting damaged effect... 8 ] corsets of this time, the contribution of Mrs. Bloomer and Dr. Jaeger to the leisure.! Brassiere ( in my research ) came later in the 1890s and 1900s were 'health'corsets... One of the Ages, original and inverted ( 2019 ) which one ’ ideal. Original and inverted ( 2019 ) which one ’ s wear Daily, 84 ( 54 ), 67. inflated! They did not wear a corset intended to be cinched tighter in order to achieve same..., the straight-front corset was functional in that it separated the breasts up short stays '' i.e...

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